Download Mobi The Kingdom by the Sea: A Journey Around the Coast of Great Britain By Paul Theroux
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Ebook About This “interesting, insightful book” by the author of Deep South reveals “a side of Britain few visitors see” (The New York Times Book Review). After eleven years as an American living in London, the renowned travel writer Paul Theroux set out to travel clockwise around the coast of Great Britain to find out what the British were really like. The result is this perceptive, hilarious record of the journey. Whether in Cornwall or Wales, Ulster or Scotland, the people he encountered along the way revealed far more of themselves than they perhaps intended to display to a stranger. Theroux captured their rich and varied conversational commentary with caustic wit and penetrating insight. “A sharp and funny descriptive writer . . . Theroux is a good companion.” —The Times (London)Book The Kingdom by the Sea: A Journey Around the Coast of Great Britain Review :
I enjoy reading travel books long after they get published. It gives me a glimpse into the past, the economic conditions, political and social preoccupations, standards of living, and the state of the infrastructure. Paul Theroux wrote this book in 1982 on his travels in the UK that year. I too traveled in the UK for months in 2003, 2014, and 2016. It was interesting for me to compare the UK in 1982 with my experience, almost 35 years later.Theroux travels along the coast of the UK in 1982. He starts in the south-eastern coastal town of Margate and moves clockwise along the coast. He returns to Margate via the northern and eastern coastline after reaching Cape Wrath in Scotland as his northern-most point. On the way, he makes a detour from Carlisle in northern England and takes the boat train to Northern Ireland. The entire journey takes him three months. His preferred mode of travel, as always, was the train. Trains did not always run because of strikes or Thatcherite purges. Then he walked. Only when forced to do so, he hitchhikes or takes the bus. He experiences the country talking to its people in small towns and on trains. Museums, big cities, and sight-seeing forays were a no-no. As a result, the book is full of observations on the English, the Scot, the Welsh, and the northern Irish. Readers of Theroux’s other books would recall that he always has a soft corner for the underdog. In the UK, he seems to like the Welsh the most, followed by sympathy for the Northern Irish, even though he loathes their religious fervor. Scots merit some friendly words, when he can understand what they were saying in English. As for the English, I could spot his hidden affection for them, but he drowns it in his biting observations.Theroux’s observations on Northern Ireland fascinated me. I traveled there for a few weeks in 2016. It was a good eighteen years after the Good Friday Agreement between the United Kingdom, Ireland, and the political parties in Northern Ireland. I saw tourism flourishing in the cities of Derry and Belfast. There were even tours to the infamous ‘Divis Tower’ of Falls Road in Belfast. Life seemed normal, as it would in any European city. Theroux’s account of Northern Ireland in 1982 captures the past of this troubled region and shows how different life was then.For a start, Theroux refers to N. Ireland as Ulster, a term favored by Unionists, owing allegiance to the UK. The Irish nationalists reject this term. He makes blistering psychoanalytic remarks about Ulster, its men and womenfolk, and its religions. In 1982, he viewed Ulster as an assemblage of secret societies, where only men got admitted. He observes the men made rules, beat drums, swore oaths, invented handshakes, and passwords, and crept into the dark and killed people. Then they returned home to their women, like small children to their mothers. At home, their overworked womenfolk treated these men as if they were forever boys and burdens. Theroux says the shame or guilt this dependency inspired made the men aggressive. They were unemployed and had all the time in the world to ventilate their aggression. Religion was not a restraining force. Theroux finds Irish Catholicism to be one long litany of mother imagery and mother worship. Irish Protestantism, he feels, is a collection of tribal memory of bloody battles.Theroux found Northern Ireland unlike a part of Europe. It was like the past in an old picture - empty trains, blackened buildings, bellicose religion, dirt, poverty, narrow-mindedness, trickery, and murder filling the scene. He saw it as a society with tribal instincts, tribal warfare, tribal kinships, and a sense of isolation that inspired suspicion and generosity toward strangers. In his assessment, Ulster as a society was frightening at first, then inconvenient, then annoying, then maddening, and ultimately a bore. His exasperated words, “All the security checks! All the metal detectors! All the body searches and friskings and questions!” reminded me so much of our world today after 9/11!However, Theroux is fair and acknowledges the goodness in N. Ireland. He feels grateful no one had imposed on him. He had done nothing but ask questions, but says he always received interesting answers. The people he met were hospitable and decent. No one had ever asked him what he did for a living. Theroux speculates that it would be an impolite question in a place where so many people were on the dole.1982 was the year Margaret Thatcher went to war on the Falkland Islands. Theroux found the British b being caught up in nationalism and jingoism because of the war. But his keen eye sees beyond the war hysteria to realize that Britain’s problem in 1982 was unemployed people and closed mines, factories, and businesses. No one talked about working conditions anymore because there was no work. It was as if the era of Industry had come and gone. In the Scottish city of Aberdeen, he finds the oil industry almost entirely manned by young single men with no hobbies. They looked lonely and swamped the city doing nothing but drink. He thought the Aberdonians hated and feared them.Theroux is caustic about the English attitude to race and minorities. He finds the English hated the Japanese for being rich overachievers and for being guiltless racists. They hated them for eating raw fish, for working like dogs, and for torturing their prisoners during the war. To my amusement, in 2016, I remember hearing them saying similar things about the Chinese! Theroux writes with sarcastic humor on the British attitudes towards its minorities. When a colored runner came first in a race against foreigners, he was “English.” If he came second, he was “British.” and he was “colored” if he lost. If he cheated, he was “West Indian”! The English aristocracy, according to Theroux, had nearly always composed of flatterers, cutthroats, boyfriends, political pirates, and people of very conceited ambition.The author concludes the English do the small things well and the big things badly. He writes at length, “every large hotel at which I had stayed in England seemed run down or overpriced, understaffed, dirty, the staff overworked and slow. All the smaller places were preferable, the smallest always the best. The English were talented craftspeople, but poor mass-producers of goods. They were brilliant at running a corner shop but were failures at supermarkets. Perhaps this had something to do with their sense of anonymity? Person to person, I had found them truthful and efficient, and humane. But anonymity made them lazy, dishonest, and aggressive. Hidden in his car, the Englishman was often impatient to the point of being murderous. Over the phone, he was unhelpful and often rude. They were not timid, but shy. Shyness made them tolerant, but it also gave them a grudge against foreigners, whom they regarded as boomers and show-offs. It was hard to distinguish hotels in England from prisons or hospitals. They ran most of them with the same indifference or cruelty.”Theroux makes many other insightful observations on a myriad number of things and people. He talks about writers, painters, musicians, travelers, the youth in Britain, and the skinheads. In my travels in the UK, I found the people always friendly and kind. The way waitresses in restaurants and coffee shops addressed me as ‘Love or darling’ in places like Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire or Yorkshire, enchanted me. I found northern Englanders cordial and amiable. However, Theroux traveled in the UK at a more problematic time. The UK was in the process of a great transition in 1982. Margaret Thatcher, the then prime minister, decided that life cannot continue to be what it was for the British. The challenge of Globalization and the emerging Chinese manufacturing behemoth forced her to make drastic changes. She concluded that the British economy cannot prosper by mining coal, manufacturing products at high costs in their factories, and trade unions ruling the roost. Her policies put many people out of work without alternatives. Theroux had seen the early pangs of this transition in 1982. I saw a prosperous and richer UK in 2016, with even the small towns looking well-heeled and booming. It would justify what Thatcher set in motion as necessary. Even the Labor party under Blair embraced many of those ideas later.I enjoyed reading the book, even though much of that UK does not endure anymore. Theroux peppers it with his superb command of the English language and a keen sense of reflection. It feels like a timeless chronicle. I read this book a while back while pining for another trip to the UK. The author is not much of a fan of England and the British people, but his excursions to familiar places still rang enough of a bell for me that I ordered and read another copy after my most recent trip. He’s a wonderful writer, traveling by foot and rail through the edges of the country during a difficult time in the country’s history. I like traveling with train passes, so I particularly enjoyed the parts about the trips by rail. The creepy stories about the B&Bs and the moldy hotels were scary….I hope they weren’t too off-putting for people who would otherwise take the trip. If you do, try “self-catering’ where one can rent a house or apartment and live like the natives, and the cost for a week will be less than two days in London. 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